HERITAGE & CRAFTSMANSHIP

The Art of Kundan & Polki Jewellery Craftsmanship

An inside look into royal Indian jewelry traditions, gold foil craftsmanship, and the eternal beauty of uncut diamonds.

Ananya Sharma
Ananya Sharma Master Gemologist & Heritage Curator
August 12, 2026 6 min read
The Art of Kundan & Polki Jewellery Craftsmanship

Handcrafted Kundan necklace set with uncut diamonds and royal emerald drops.

For centuries, Indian royal courts have been celebrated worldwide for producing some of the most spectacular fine jewellery ever created. Among these timeless heritage crafts, Kundan and Polki stand as supreme testaments to goldsmithing mastery, regal elegance, and meticulous artistry.

The Royal Origins of Kundan & Polki

Dating back to the Mughal era and Rajasthan’s royal palaces, Kundan jewellery literally translates to "pure gold." Unlike modern pressure setting techniques, authentic Kundan setting involves setting carefully selected stones in soft, highly purified gold foil. This delicate sheet creates a reflective mirror backdrop beneath each stone, amplifying light refraction and giving every piece an unmistakable luminous radiance.

"True luxury lies not just in the rarity of precious gemstones, but in the centuries of soul, patience, and ancestral craft hand-woven into every gold setting."

— JSS Master Craftsman Archives

Understanding Polki: Nature’s Uncut Brilliance

Polki refers to diamonds in their pure, uncut form. Mined naturally without artificial faceted intervention, each Polki diamond retains its organic contours, raw radiance, and distinctive antique character. When combined with Meenakari enamel work on the reverse side, every ornament becomes a double-sided masterpiece of fine art.

Collector’s Insight: Spotting Pure Kundan Work

  • Gold Foil Backing: Look for the ultra-pure 24k gold foil (Kundan) framing each gem edge.
  • Meenakari Reverse Art: Authentic heritage pieces feature vibrant hand-engraved enamel artwork on the back.
  • Uncut Gem Inclusions: Natural Polki diamonds possess subtle internal character marks that verify their untreated authenticity.

Whether passed down through generations as heirloom bridal treasures or acquired to commemorate life’s grandest milestones, owning an authentic piece of Kundan and Polki jewellery means carrying forward a vibrant piece of Indian royal history.

Ananya Sharma
WRITTEN BY

Ananya Sharma

Master Gemologist & Heritage Curator

Ananya Sharma has over 15 years of experience in gemological research and Indian royal jewellery curation. She works closely with heritage artisan families in Jaipur and Hyderabad.

Previous Article

Ultimate Guide to Diamond Clarity and Cut

Next Article

Bridal Gold Jewellery Trends for the Modern Bride